Stock and OEM = Best maintenance possible, more independent, self reliant, and forums and manuals cover itĪftermarket and Generic = Lot of research, more money, little risky, awesome, and you learn from results, good or bad. People said yes, label says deisel, I did it. I prefer OEM, but I save money by doing my own work, except transmissions :screwy: Generic coolant, alright, if your feeling it, go for it. Using G12, G13 or whatever will do nothing to stop other problems (leaks, overheating, CTS failure, etc.)įood for thought: G12 can be mixed with G13. Its OK to mix with G12 (or G12+ or G12++) according to the parts department at the franchised dealer where I bought mine.

If you are going to switch to generic, just flush out all of the old G12 from the system. plugged heater core, are due not to using generic antifreeze but rather, mixing generics with G 12 and/or not changing the antifreeze timely. This is a DIY on replacing the VW VR6 coolant pipe, aka Crack Pipe, and thermostat housing. Probably get the jegs version inline and a moroso cap 18 psi. heater hose to coolant plastics without aux water pump/or without the hose to bottom of reservoir bottle. heater hose to head without throttle body hose attached. Will look forward to the blow by blow description. I need the following: -inline coolant fill & cap. G12 Plus is purple (updated G12) Glysantin G30 is pink and is a suitable replacement for G12, G12+ and Glysantin G40 G12 Plus Plus is purple. I believe that most coolant problems e.g. G12, G12+, G30, G12 Plus Plus, G40, G13, G12 EVO VW MK4-VR6 G12 is pink.

Using g13 coolant mk4 vr6